At one stage, it was almost impossible to think of his country and not to think of beer. And potatoes, and pork ribs with apple sauce. Now beer – alcohol in general really – was rarely used. Places like the Beer Museum catered mostly for tourists. Most of the time it was visited by fat Americans. Before, they were loud and crass, bragging about the miles and miles back home. Now they were strangely quiet. Vulgar still, and crass, but much more muted now, walking around in awe of the outsized monuments.